One of the biggest makeup questions I get asked when it comes to having rosacea is why on earth I wear blusher. I’ve previously been caught off guard with the question, wondering if I should bother wearing it, or whether it just looks straight-up awful on me. And I know I’m not alone in those worries. Most people with rosacea or extreme flushing choose to avoid blush at all costs. After all, why would we want to purposefully add to the very thing we’ve spent years trying to conceal?
After years of practice and plenty of confidence building, my answer has become clear: I wear blusher because I love makeup. Just because I’m naturally flushed, doesn’t mean I have to miss out on experimenting with gorgeous coral or pink hues. Plus, adding deliberate pops of colour can actually help minimise the appearance of my rosacea.
If you have rosacea or facial redness and aren’t sure where to start when it comes to blush, ahead is everything you need to know.
What is rosacea, exactly?
Rosacea is a chronic skin inflammatory condition affecting one in ten people in the UK. There are four types of rosacea: erythematotelangectatic (persistent redness), papulopustular (often known as acne rosacea), ocular (rosacea of the eyes), and phymatous (thickening of the skin).
Most people with rosacea experience redness, extreme flushing, irritation, and sometimes a burning sensation. Darker skin tones often experience rosacea in brown or purple hues, coupled with irritation and a burning sensation. These often present alongside pimples, which are typically on the cheeks.
How is rosacea treated?
I have papulopustular rosacea, which presents as pimples on my cheeks, flushing, and a general irritation and dryness. Prior to my diagnosis, I thought I had acne and treated my skin with a whole host of strong acid-based products, which only exacerbated my symptoms. It’s only when I sought out professional help from Dr Sharon Wong that I realised I actually had rosacea. She gave me Rozex (a topical antibiotic to treat my pimples, which cleared in a matter of weeks) and azelaic acid (an anti-inflammatory to treat the redness) on prescription. I continue to use prescription-strength azelaic acid a few times a week to keep flare-ups at bay.
When my rosacea was at its worst, I must admit that I found makeup difficult to enjoy. But I also didn’t have much knowledge of how to enjoy it. Now, my makeup is about concealing what I have control over and making the best of what I don’t.
Because of the pimples and redness, many people choose to focus solely on coverage and skip blush altogether – either because they’re a little scared, or because they think that it will emphasise their skin condition. But, if done correctly, it can have the opposite outcome. Here are my tips…
First, perfect your base
To get the most out of blusher in your makeup look, it’s easiest to first neutralise any unwanted redness you have. After prepping your skin with SPF (this is crucial in keeping rosacea flare-ups to a minimum) focus on toning down any of your natural redness, especially in the areas you won’t want to add blush – for example, around your nose, chin and forehead. To keep my makeup looking natural, I like to build this up with layers; focusing on the areas I need coverage the most.
For foundation, I like the Maybelline SuperStay Full Coverage Foundation, £10.99, Boots and KVD Beauty Good Apple Skin Perfecting Foundation Balm, £29, Boots. For concealer, makeup artist and rosacea advocate Rose Gallagher recommends the IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye Concealer, £26, and the Bobbi Brown Skin Corrector Sticks, £26.
As a foundation alternative, you can also use green-tinted products to help neutral redness; Elf’s Tone Adjusting Face Primer, £9, and Rosalique 3 in 1 Anti-Redness Miracle Formula, £30 do a great job.
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Which blusher shade is best for redness?
One of the joys of adding blush back into your routine if you have rosacea is being purposeful with it. For this reason, Gallagher often goes for peach shades that look ‘chosen’ over shades that might appear like natural blushing. The shade looks great on all skin tones because it adds some colour back into your complexion without making it look warm or hot to the touch (which rosacea often is).
“It becomes a considered and purposeful makeup decision,” says Gallagher. Makeup artist Mira Parmar echoes this approach: “I often choose a bronze/taupe or a peach, rather than a red or pink blush as this counteracts and balances the redness caused by rosacea.”
Gallagher sings the praises of Daniel Sandler’s Watercolour Blush, £16.50, (which comes in a variety of shades), as it’s pigmented but featherlight. She particularly loves the shade Cherub because, whilst it’s rosy, the inclusion of a peach undertone makes it rosacea-friendly. Parmar loves the Ciaté Dewy Blush Glossy Cheek Tint in Papaya, £19 and the Beauty Pie Super Cheek Powder Blush in Fever Peach, £10.52.
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Another thing to consider is whether the blusher has glitter in it. If your blush has a shimmer then it might pick up on your skin’s texture if you have papulopustular rosacea. For this reason, glitter and shimmer-free formulations are often preferable.
Which blush texture is preferable for rosacea?
The texture of your blush is also an important factor to consider, and it really comes down to personal preference and skin type. Oilier skin types might prefer powders, while those with dry skin might like to choose cream formulas. I much prefer creams because my skin is on the drier side, and I also find the tapping motion less irritating than sweeping a brush across my cheeks.
Whilst Gallagher likes both, she also sways towards creams because they are slightly easier to work with as they blend more easily when tapped in. Parmar’s general rule is, if the rosacea is mild and skin texture is smooth, go for a cream (not a liquid), and if the rosacea is a little more severe and texture on the rougher side, instead opt for a matte powder.
The secret to avoiding irritation
When it comes to any makeup application when you have rosacea, there’s one tip to getting better results every single time: using a light touch. Gallagher consistently notes that it’s one of her “most boring but important” tips.
Because rosacea is so touch-sensitive, being heavy-handed with your makeup will almost instantly exacerbate any redness. By remembering to keep brush strokes and finger taps light, you’ll notice a big difference in the end result.
To cause the least irritation possible, Parmar likes to use a damp makeup sponge to pat the products into the skin gently.
The importance of touching up
One of the biggest things to consider when it comes to rosacea and makeup is that your natural flushing might start to peek through during the day, especially during those hotter months. If you’re going to be out all day and want your makeup to stay flawless, you might have to retouch. For many makeup artists, this is an expectation they like to manage ahead of time but can be fixed with a quick bathroom touch-up.
Have fun with blush
My main tip is to ultimately have fun with your blush. Once you’ve nailed your technique with the right products, “you can enjoy experimenting with these flushes of colour just as much as anyone else,” says Gallagher.
For me, blusher is now one of my favourite makeup items – it’s the first thing I keep when a new sample lands on my desk. Since rosacea is a chronic condition, I know that it will never go away, so by managing it as best I can with professional help and learning to love my natural flush, I can enjoy makeup just as much as everyone else.
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