The Curly Girl Method (CGM) is an approach to curly hair care created by Lorraine Massey, Author of Curly Girl: The Handbook.
The intentions of the CGM are to guide you through the best methods of treating your curls, and to help you select the correct products for your hair.
The book offers a series of ‘rules’ for curly girls to follow to grow the healthiest and happiest hair possible.
The only problem with this is the interpretation and rigidity of these rules; they can be slightly overwhelming. A lot of curly girls arrive as naturals after years of beating their hair into submission because someone somewhere said it looked ‘unkempt.’
Why then, when trying to embrace their natural beauty, would they want to follow seemingly impossible rules. It’s like being told: “Congrats! You’re now part of the curly hair community, please read the terms and conditions.”
I digress.
Admittedly, there are some good reasons to follow the CGM. Searching for curly hair guidance can also feel overwhelming; too much information, too many people saying different things, and too many products to try. For this reason, having a set of rules such as those from the CGM can be quite useful to streamline and somewhat simplify the process.
I lie somewhere between these two mindsets. Some rules of the CGM I can get behind and fully support, while others I will respectfully opt out of.
Check out my thoughts below:
Rule one: Avoid Shampoo. Use a co-wash or low-poo replacement
Agree or disagree: disagree
I get it, shampoo can strip your hair of moisture. It’s not a pleasant feeling, nor is it necessary for everyone every week.
But cleansing well is so important for scalp health and hydration. In my opinion and experience, these benefits can only come from a good quality shampoo and not from a co-wash or low-poo.
This is also a rule that is perhaps slightly outdated considering the influx of new Curly Girl-friendly haircare brands offering sulfate-free, clarifying and moisturising shampoos.
Co-washes and low-poos are great for mid-week refreshers, but my hair just does not cope with them as a main cleansing method – which is why I do not follow this CGM rule.
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Rule two: Don’t use combs or brushes
Agree or disagree: disagree
The idea of this one is to use less invasive methods to detangle your hair such as finger detangling or using a wide-tooth comb. I understand it and used to follow this rule – albeit unintentionally – but was then introduced to Tangle Teezer, and I’ve never looked back since.
Finger detangling or detangling with a wide tooth comb are less likely to cause damage and may cause less shedding, but a brush might be better at actually getting rid of all the knots as well as being much faster.
As long as you understand the differences that different tools and methods can make, the decision should be all yours!
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Rule three: Use a microfibre towel or cotton t-shirt to dry your hair
Agree or disagree: agree
This is one rule I definitely agree with.
Using a normal bath towel to dry your hair will make it ten times frizzier than it needs to be. A microfibre towel or t-shirt means less friction and more definition.
Rule four: Cover your hair with a satin/silk bonnet or pillowcase at night
Agree or disagree: agree
This is also a winner IMO, and one of the things you don’t realise makes a difference until you start implementing it.
Satin and silk are slippery materials, meaning your hair won’t rub against the fabric, leading to less shedding, less frizz and more moisture retention. It also means your hair will last longer between washes, which is always a plus!
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Overall, the CGM does come from a place of education and love. The downside is the shame that some online CGM communities project onto non-followers and rule-breakers of the approach. The point of love and education gets lost, and right and wrong enters the chat, which confuses everything and causes conflict.
The curly hair community is supposed to be a supportive environment where we can uplift each other and ultimately strive towards a common goal of acceptance. It’s important to accept everyone’s methods of haircare whether they follow a strict rule book or have a completely flexible outlook.
No one gains anything from toxicity.
See you for my next column.
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