I’m Doctor Kemi, NHS junior doctor and future dermatologist – and your new skincare columnist here at Eliza.
Like many of you reading this, I have an absolute love for skincare and dermatological health. My incredible journey so far has allowed me to write for a whole range of publications, from the British Journal of Dermatology, all the way to Vogue magazine. But actually, my love of skincare started a lot earlier – and through my own skin journey.
Having battled nodulocystic acne for over a decade, I know the first hand frustration that comes with hoping the next product you use will be the one to finally free you from painful, unsightly acne and the hyperpigmentation that it leaves behind.
However, it was only while at medical school that I finally realised all I really needed was the right knowledge and the correct combination of ingredients.
Over time, I’ve built up a comprehensive knowledge of the skin barrier and skin health overall, and would love to reveal it all to you. But if there’s only one thing I can share for my first ever column, it would be the top tip I tell everyone I meet: never take skincare advice from a peer who doesn’t have the same skin type as you. This is what the experts are for (and why I am here to write my Eliza column every fortnight!).
It seems sort of obvious, right? But you’d be surprised how many ‘sensitive skin’ individuals are layering up often-harsh exfoliating acids because one friend with an oily complexion swears by them.
The key to excellent skin is understanding your own skin, and recognising just how different it is from everybody else’s. Your skin’s barrier has a totally different set of needs than that of your friends.
Speaking of, you’ll likely have heard lots about this skin ‘barrier’ stuff, but what does it all mean?
Well, the barrier works to keep out harmful external aggressors such as bacteria, ultraviolet radiation and environmental pollutants, and simultaneously keeps in all the good stuff, like water for hydration. For this reason, it’s crucial to build up a healthy, strong skin barrier for great skin.
All of us will have immensely different skin barriers depending on our skin type – and this is the point.
Some of us will have barriers that secrete excess sebum (oily skin); others will have a dry, dehydrated barrier where there is excessive water loss (dry skin). There are those that will have a combination of both oily and dry areas (combination skin), and more who will have multiple breaks in their barriers, which are significantly weaker (sensitive skin).
In general, those with dry, sensitive skin will benefit from ingredients to nourish and hydrate their barrier such as ceramides, urea and hyaluronic acid.
*Eliza may earn commission on sales from these product links
They’ll need to gently phase in their high impact actives (such as AHAs, BHAs, and retinols) one at a time, and always be on the lookout for signs of irritation.
Using an potent combination of high impact actives such as retinol, vitamin C and exfoliating acids on a barrier that is already damaged and sensitive will further exacerbate the damage done already, and likely make skin blemish-prone.
Equally, individuals with congested, oily skin will not want to take advice from friends who are genetically prone to dryness and dehydration.
Instead, they can boost their skin barrier by turning to exfoliating ingredients such as salicylic acid and AHAs.
*Eliza may earn commission on sales from these product links
The key is to understand your skin’s requirements, and only pick up ingredients that will work to complement and reinforce your skin’s barrier – and that is in part what I am here for!
Stay tuned for my fortnightly column ‘Ask Dr Kemi,’ where I will be tackling common skincare issues, and look out for opportunities to ask me questions to feature in a column at @eliza.co.uk.
In the meantime, follow me @dr.fab.
;
