As a makeup artist, before you begin someone’s makeup it’s always important to establish some ground rules. What do they like? What do they hate? And is there anything that they want to feel better about?
When it comes to the latter, the answer is often ‘dark circles’.
Dark circles are one of many areas of high colour that can impact the overall finish of your makeup. Others include hyperpigmentation, melasma, scarring and redness. When you use a traditional concealer in this area, the residual high colour that peeks through can feel like wearing a black bra under a white t-shirt.
Switch to a colour corrector, however, and you might just find that everything looks more flawless.
What is colour correcting?
A colour corrector does what it says on the tin and is designed to neutralise any prominent areas of discolouration. They’re created with traditional colour theory in mind (where you look to opposites on the colour wheel) and to be used very specifically on areas of discolouration, nowhere else.
The idea is that you can reduce the appearance of high colour (for example, blue under-eye circles) by covering it with its opposite counterpart on the wheel (in that case, an orange corrector).
For best results, it is ideal to use this underneath your regular concealer and/or foundation. The colours are often quite bold and vivid so they may look a little out of place if left to sit alone.
The best colour correctors to buy for each concern
With this in mind, finding a corrector with a thin consistency is imperative. Here are a few of my favourites…
Peach colour corrector:
Peach is great for reducing dark circles in fair to light skin. The Bobbi Brown Corrector Sticks are fantastic for using around the eyes because they’re creamy, hydrating and they come in a wide variety of shades.
Orange colour corrector:
Orange is great for reducing dark circles or pigmentation in medium to deep skin. NARS has a wide variety of correctors in the same lightweight formula as its iconic Radiant Creamy concealer. These are in more of a liquid form with a finer applicator, ideal for targeting smaller areas like scars.
Red colour corrector:
Red is great for reducing dark circles or pigmentation in deep skin. Sleek’s MakeUP Lifeproof Colour Corrector, £6.99, Boots, come in a liquid stick form and dry to a velvety matte finish. A tiny bit goes a very long way with these, so use sparingly. They are by far some of the best I’ve used and come in at one of the most affordable price points.
Then of course, there are slightly more specific wants and needs. These include:
Green colour corrector:
Green is great for reducing the appearance of redness but must be used with caution and only on the red areas – otherwise it is a recipe for looking completely gaunt! TikTok’s favourite viral Dr. Jart Cicapair now comes in glowy skincare drops.
Lavender colour corrector:
Lavender is great to brighten any sallowness in the skin. NYX offers a densely pigmented lavender in its NYX Professional Makeup HD Photogenic Concealer Wand, £6, LookFantastic, which again sits nearly undetectably and boasts an affordable price tag.
Colour correcting palettes:
If colour correcting is part of your everyday routine, I can’t recommend the MAC Studio Fix Conceal + Correct Palettes, £32, John Lewis, enough. I have these in my kit and they contain all of the colours you need to do both.
How to apply colour corrector
Once you are happy with your coverage, the next step is crucial: press your final layer on, don’t rub or mix! We want your corrector to sit atop its area of high colour, and then an even layer of foundation and/or concealer to follow.
With this in mind, I’d recommend using your hands to gently press your base over the top or dab it on with a sponge. Too much pressure when layering your next step and you’ll blur the colours together, giving an altogether unnatural look to your foundation.
And if all of this sounds too complicated? You could always try the IT Cosmetics CC Cream, £32.50, Boots, a single-step corrector and foundation all in one. Yes, I’m biased as I am its brand ambassador, but it is also the number one CC Cream in the UK and USA so I don’t think it’s just me that loves the brand!
Give this a try and let me know @RoseGallagher on Instagram if it helps to make your makeup more flawless!
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