Every red-carpet season, I screenshot my favourite makeup looks and sometimes attempt to recreate them. Often, the looks become trends in their own right. In short, it’s worth sitting up and taking note.
The epitome of red carpet events is of course, the Oscars. Behind-the-scenes, creatives work tirelessly to produce the ‘picture-perfect’ images we swoon over.
I’ve always wondered what goes on backstage so spoke to three makeup artists to find out. They (luckily) revealed all.
Makeup artists on the ‘pinch-me’ moment
It’s surely difficult for a makeup artist to pick their favourite Oscars moment, but here’s what they had to say:
“On every red-carpet there is ‘pinch me’ moment,” says Billie Gene, celebrity makeup artist represented by Opus Beauty. “The look you create is about to be seen in the homes of millions, on one of Hollywood’s biggest nights. Then the next day you are filled with anticipation to see if your efforts happen to make any ‘best beauty looks’ roundups.”
Eliven Q Rodgers worked on her first Oscars in the 2020/2021 season. “It was such a special time and achievement, to work on an Oscar-nominated actor (Leslie Odom J), but we were in a pandemic,” says the MUA. The pinch-me moment came after; grooming was done, hair was done, and then he put on his suit! A whole photoshoot was set at his home, and we made the best of it.”
“I had my first ‘pinch-me’ moment about six years ago. I walked on the red carpet with my client and was so excited to see all the celebrities,” says iLene Gama, celebrity makeup artist.
On the creative process
The makeup artists loosely plan their looks in advance – it helps knowing what the client will be wearing beforehand. Rodgers explains that even though men’s beauty looks aren’t that creative, the key is the flawless skin, so she focuses on skin prep, with tools and face masks.
“One of my favourite people to do makeup on is DeWanda Wise; she loves to dress up and explore. Glam with her is a fantasy galaxy, she wants to tap into it all,” says Gene, who usually picks a few looks in advance, to let the client decide on the day.
“Fashion is a strong inspiration for beauty, so knowing what the client is wearing is my first stop in developing the look, then I decide what makeup would best tell the story.”
On the atmosphere
The feeling behind the scenes “is pretty chaotic”, in a good way,” says Gama. “Everyone is in their zone and doing what they have to for a successful show.”
Gene says it can even feel like a wedding day: “It can be peaceful and serene or hectic, depending on the client and the team. Sometimes there is a last-minute dress change, or a split zipper!”
On the difficulties of Oscars makeup
A lot of time is needed
The makeup starts two hours before the carpet and takes on average two hours, though sometimes it can take up to five(!) Gene says. Within that time, makeup and hair must be done simultaneously, which can feel pretty chaotic.
It gets busy
Imagine having to do makeup on more than one client! Gama says that planning the looks in advance and allowing enough time in between clients is key. Both Gene and Rodgers agree that having a good assistant makes a difference, especially “one who can help make things run quicker and smoother so you can be in and out with one client and to go to the next,” says Rodgers.
“Working on multiple talent before a major carpet is insanely challenging. You have to over-prepare and make sure every client is happy and still feels like the only one on their big day. I usually plan to have one assistant to every client and one content creator to capture the look,” says Gene.
You can’t always do touch-ups
Imagine you create this beautiful makeup look and then not being able to do touch-ups. That’s the case here, unless you do makeup for the hosts, like Gama has in the past. Her go-to powder for ensuring everything stays put as long as possible? Fenty’s Invisimatte Blotting Powder, £25, Boots.
Alternatively, the makeup artists hand their clients some translucent powder to take with them: “It absorbs any oil on the face without disturbing the look,” says Gene, who swears by Nars Light Reflecting Pressed Setting Powder, £31, LookFantastic.
Rodgers explains that touch-ups right before the red carpet are essential; for women it’s a lip pencil and lipstick/gloss, usually that matches the outfit. For men, it’s lip balm only, and both get a good spritz of a setting spray, like the Milk Makeup Hydro Grip Set+Refresh, £18, Cult Beauty.
On tips to take away
I always wonder how difficult it is to find the perfect balance between makeup that looks great on camera and IRL. So, the makeup artists left me with a tip.
Gene recommends taking a flash photo of the product on, to ensure the colour comes up as you’d like. Plus, using talc-free powders that are refined and lightweight on the skin is advisable.
“If the makeup looks great in person, I add just a touch more and take a photo to check,” confirms Rodgers.
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