I’ve always been a ‘try anything once’ kinda gal, but if you’d told teenage me that I’d be injecting polynucleotides, aka salmon sperm DNA into my face, neck and scalp when I got older, I’m not sure I would have believed it.
Let’s face it, it does sound pretty weird and wacky. But, when you think about some of the most popular aesthetic treatments around, you could say the same.
Botox is made from poison; micro-needling involves running sharp needles across your skin and chemical peels literally make your (dead) skin fall off. OK, maybe salmon sperm still sounds a little out there, but the science is compelling.
The science of polynucleotides
If you did A-level biology, you may remember that DNA is made up of nucleotides and that a polynucleotide is a compound made up of several nucleotides bonded together. “The polynucleotides we’re using to improve the appearance of skin and hair is made up of purified fragments of fish DNA extracted from salmon sperm,” explained aesthetic doctor and plastic surgeon George Christopoulos, when I went to see him at The Ghanem Clinic.
Salmon sperm DNA closely resembles human DNA, which means it has the ability to function as a biostimulator. And for those of us who didn’t do A-level science, biostimulators “trigger the body’s own regeneration and repair processes to reduce inflammation and stimulate collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid production,” shares Christopoulos.
Distilled into a variety of strengths and suspended in water, studies have shown that three to four treatments with this injectable, administered three to four weeks apart offer a marked improvement in the appearance of tear troughs (the hollow groove between the under eye and cheek), dark circles, sagging skin, acne scars, pigmentation, rosacea, dullness and hair density.
So, as someone who’s recently developed dark circles that won’t budge even after plenty of sleep, and who’s been desperate to improve my acne scaring, hyperpigmentation, and thinning hair for years, I could not wait to get started.
The process
Christopoulos ran through the different brand offerings he planned to use: ‘Newest’ on my neck as it’s a mix of polynucleotides and hyaluronic acid, which works best to plump, smooth, lift and add radiance. ‘Plinest Eye,’ on my eyelids and under eyes, as it’s formulated specifically for the delectate eye area. And then for the smattering of acne scars on my cheeks and to coax back hair growth along my hairline, Christopoulos planned to pull out the big guns. ‘Plenhyage XL Strong,’ which has one of the highest concentrations of polynucleotides available.
Unlike with other injectables I’ve had, there was no numbing cream pre-treatment but honestly the ultra-fine needles used on my neck and eyes were relatively painless. On my cheeks however, Christopoulos inserted a cannula (a blunt thin tube) under my skin, which was also not painful but did feel a tad uncomfortable as if someone was rooting around beneath my skin, which I suppose he was.
My scalp was the most painful area, and each injection stung a little, and similarly to when getting Botox, I was left with a few little bumps that lasted about 24 hours post-treatment. But all in all, the process was incredibly quick, making it a tolerable experience.
The results
Christopoulos warned me that the results take time (at least three months), and “lifestyle factors will impact the outcome”.
“Poor diet, an unhealthy lifestyle, too much sun exposure and the like will all cause the breakdown of collagen and elastin, and increase free radicals in the body,” he stressed.
However, he also shared that thanks to polynucleotides’ ability to turbo charge skin function, treatments like Botox can last longer and less dermal filler tends to be needed in those who have had a course of the stuff.
Right on schedule, I noticed a difference in month three of treatment; I’ve had some new hairs sprout at my hairline, the skin around my eyes looked fresher and brighter, and my skin overall has a glow to it.
However, the scarring on my cheeks and lines on my neck have yet to see a marked improvement. I think patience is key here though, and I’m hopeful that when I get to three months post one full course, these areas will also see a change.
The maintenance
While I wait for my cells to regenerate from the inside, I’ve been giving the polyneuclotides a helping hand on the outside by following a regenerative skincare routine.
P.S. If the idea of injectables or specifically fish sperm DNA gives you the heebie-jeebies, you could give these a try instead.
Cleanser
Simple Replenishing Cream Cleanser with 11% Ceramide Boosters & Hyaluronic Acid, £8
Packed with actives that trigger your skin to protect and strengthen its barrier, this creamy cleanser washes off the day while helping to keep moisture in.
Serum
Tula Triple-Hydra Complex Day & Night Serum, £41
Our skin’s microbiome is a key component to keeping it healthy and looking its best, and thanks to the pre and probiotics in this serum, you’re covered. Antioxidants offer protection against free radicals, while peptides, polyglutamic acid and hyaluronic acid keep skin hydrated, plump and smooth.
Moisturiser
Faace Stress Faace Moisturiser, £34
Stress doesn’t just leave you feeling frazzled, it also floods the body with cortisol, which literally ages your skin. Cue this multitasking wonder. Its aromatherapy blend calms the senses, while gold standard actives like niacinamide, neurophroline, allantoin, and rice bran oil strengthen, soothe, smooth, brighten and hydrate.
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