We all have pores; they are part of the structure of the skin and are where hair follicles, sweat and oil glands naturally open out onto the skin’s surface.
If having visibly large ‘dilated’ pores are a cosmetic concern for you fear not; there are some of the things that you can do to minimise their appearance.
What causes enlarged pores?
Firstly, it’s important to understand that having large, dilated pores is mostly due to our genetics. But that doesn’t mean we can’t do anything about it.
Individuals with large pores often notice that they have active ‘oil secreting’ sebaceous glands that congest the pores with excess sebum (oil). When this sebum traps dirt, bacteria, and dead skin cells within our pores, the result is congested pores, acne and breakouts.
In addition to this, as we age, our skin naturally loses elasticity. This results in sagging of the skin and further widening of the pores.
Lastly, external aggressors such as ultraviolet radiation, air pollution and cigarette smoke can cause ‘oxidative stress’ on the skin and can damage cellular structures, which can further exacerbate the appearance of wide, open pores.
How to target the appearance of pores
So now we’ve covered the causes of large pores, let’s discuss the steps you can take to minimise their appearance.
First of all, stop congesting your skin. Sounds obvious right? But if you have a naturally oily skin type, you want to avoid using skincare that is going to contribute to said congestion.
Avoid heavy ointments and oils and stick instead to ‘non comedogenic’ lighter creams and water-based lotions. It’s also important not to jump onto every skincare trend that appears on TikTok!
Whilst slugging (applying Vaseline onto your skin after your routine) might work for those that have extremely dry, eczema-prone skin, chances are it won’t for you if you are oily and blemish-prone.
Instead, when it comes to your skincare routine, you want to focus on the right combination of exfoliating actives to help decongest the pores.
Which ingredients are great for pores?
Salicylic acid is able to penetrate through sebum, which makes it super successful at combating oily skin. The ingredient can either be used in your cleansers or as a serum, and is a staple for those dealing with blocked pores, secondary to excess oil.
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) on the other hand help to decongest pores by removing dead and dying skin cells that become trapped within the follicles.
AHAs comprise acids such as glycolic acid, lactic acid or mandelic acid. They help to resurface the skin, preventing the build-up of old skin cells within the pores.
Glycolic acid is smaller in size and can penetrate deeper into the skin for a stronger exfoliating experience, however this also means it may be too irritating for those with sensitive skin types.
Lactic and mandelic acid are great ingredients to decongest the pores that are kinder to the skin, and thus more suitable for those who experience sensitivity.
As well as exfoliating acids, kaolin and bentonite clay masks can help to reduce the size of pores by drawing out the impurities and build-up found deep within the follicles. It is important to use these masks with care and to only apply them on the areas that have widely-dilated pores, breakouts and congested skin; for instance, put them onto an oily t-zone, instead of using them all over the skin.
In addition to clays masks and exfoliating acids, individuals with large pores often find themselves blemish-prone and in need of a targeted blemish treatment. This is because dilated pores often come hand in hand with blackheads and whiteheads.
The value of a blemish treatment is that it applies high impact actives directly to the problem areas. Blemish treatment ingredients to look out for are salicylic acid, niacinamide and succinic acid.
Lastly, it is important to recognise that many of us will have large, dilated pores that will always be quite prominent and visible. For these people, it is possible to consider an advanced treatment such as microneedling to help resurface the skin and minimise the appearance of them.
Normal skin will have a degree of texture and/or visible pores. Whilst we can try to reduce the appearance of large pores, it’s important to normalise them and love your skin, no matter what.